Being Black Is Not A Trend
Elle Germany said, “Black is Back” but when did Black leave?
On Tuesday, the infamous ‘fashion accountability’ platform @DietPrada posted Elle Germany’s excruciating attempt on being inclusive with their November “Black is Back” editorial featuring Black models. Many publications and social media commenters are calling Elle Germany’s November issue, “Black is Back” insulting and disgraceful. @DietPrada posted pictures exposing the tastelessness of the editorial feature, which was supposed to celebrate models of color claiming models of color being in demand and inspiring us off the runway. Us? In Demand? Naomi Campbell said it best when joining the discussion in an Instagram post: WE ARE NOT A TREND. Blatant disrespect aside, the unprofessionalism of Elle Germany is almost hard to believe. Was the editorial team on vacation? Was this just an intentionally, controversial joke to start a conversation on diversity and inclusion? Nope! Elle Germany was making a serious attempt at being inclusive with this feature.
Yikes.
It’s unfortunate this type of tone-deaf homage to blackness and its contribution to the industry is so common. But, to match this type of mentality with an equally tone-deaf apology was almost as if they were trying to get an award for the most absurd mishap in fashion history. “This has definitely been a learning experience for us and we apologize to anyone that we have hurt or offended” was the closing statement posted by Elle Germany on Twitter, signed by the editor and chief Sabine Nedelchev. What remains exhausting about these “learning experiences” is that they keep happening, as if Elle Germany hadn’t not learning fromGucciorPrada or any of the many other fashion entities. When is it time to finally say, ‘we know better’ because, at this point, the learning curve is starting to crumble.
The multitude of mistakes made in this November issue almost feels dirty and cheap; it’s as if Elle couldn’t be bothered to put the same amount of professionalism and care into the presentation and celebration of Black women in the business as they do every other issue. In the official statement, they claim their aim with the theme ‘Black is Back’ was to approach the color black from different angles. The thing is, celebrating the color black and the culture, history, and influence of Black people are not the same thing. Blackness is not a prop or fashion trend in and out of season, but it is clear that Elle Germany’s understanding of blackness and Black women is that limited. To add insult to injury, misrepresenting Janaye Furman as Naomi Chin Wing is yet another passive jab to how much thought Elle Germany put into this issue: none.There’s a fine line between being insensitive and being blatantly careless and tasteless. Unfortunately, in this instance, Elle Germany was the latter.
Carelessness of this magnitude is not only careless, tactless, and unprofessional, it’s a type of violence that models of color know all too well. Although Elle Germany’s engagement and metrics will balance out in a week or so, it is not a simple hiccup that is forgotten in time. These “learning experiences” are kept in our mind and added to the long list of “learning experiences” that undermine Black existence and influence. It’s not only the behavior that stays with us, it is what lies in between the lines that causes the most harm when this kind of rhetoric is considered a celebration or a successful attempt at “diversity and inclusion” in the fashion industry.